Tampa Ag Blog

Early spring is the time to take care of weeds, BEFORE they germinate. Products vary with some labeled for only turf or only ornamentals or both. You will also have to make sure the product is labeled for your particular turf or plants, since using a product not labeled may harm your grass or plants. So lets take a look at some of the “preemergence” herbicides, meaning of course they keep weeds from “emerging” or germinating.

One of the main factors in using a pre-emergent herbicide is timing. It is essential to use the product before germination of weed seeds. This varies all over the country because of temperature difference. Some products can be used anytime, so that if you weed a certain area you can then prevent weeds from reoccurring. Many products are used in early spring or fall to be most effective for instance, to prevent “crabgrass!”

Usually the higher the rate, the longer it lasts. But not all products work this way.

Many of these are orange or yellow in color and will stain temperarily, the exception being Dimension and Ronstar (not named here)

Post emergent herbicides are specific to killing weeds “after” they germinate so that is the significant difference between the two products.

Some products have both post and preemergent activity, such as Atrazine.

These products are primarily professional products only but many are labeled for residential use and not restricted for homeowner use. Most homeowner products you buy at Walmart, etc. consist of only a small percentage of the active ingredient used in professional products. So here is a list and some of their uses:

Premergence Herbicides

SURFLAN- 40.4 % Oryzalyn by S.Ag

Used for both warm season turf and landscape ornamentals. This is probably the easiest and safest to use for homeowners. Orange in color. Controls – many annual grasses and broadleaf weeds Lasts up to 4 months at 1.5 oz. per 1000 sq.ft. on turf Ornamentals- 1.5-3 oz. per 1000 sq.ft.

BARRICADE 65 WG – 65% Prodiamine by Syngenta

Used for both warm season turf (including Seashore Paspalum) and container, field grown and landscape ornamentals. Used in established perennials and wildflower plantings. Yellow in color Controls – many grasses and broadleaf weeds Good crabgrass control – see timing on label. Turf – Ornamentals .37-.83 oz. per 100 sq.ft.

GUARDRAIL 65 WDG, PRODIAMINE 65 WDG= SAME AS BARRICADE 65 WDG

GALLERY 75 DF – 75% isoxaben by Dow Used for many cool season and warm season turf, nursery, field grown and ground cover ornamentals. Bulbs and non-bearing fruit and nut trees. Yellow in color Controls – Broad leaf weeds. Turf – 0.5 0Z. per 1000 sq.ft.

PENDULUM 3.3 – 37.4% Pendimethalin by BASF This is a yellow liquid used for Cool Season Grasses such as Bluegrass, Fescues and Ryegrass and Warm Season Grasses. Controls goose and crabgrass and broadleaf weeds Over the top use on many trees and ornamentals. Turf – Ornamentals 1.3 – 1.8 OZ. per 1000 sq.ft.

PENDULUM AQUACAP – 38.7% Pendimethalin by BASF Yellow Liquid higher active ingredient and same as Pendulum 3.3 supposedly non-staining because liquid is encapsulated and washes off into ground, but it does stain! Turf – Over the top Ornamentals 1.1-2.3 OZ. per 1000 sq.ft.

DIMENSION 2 EW- 24% Dithiopyr by Dow Non-Staining – Used on most cool season and warm season turf, container, field grown and landscape ornamentals. Controls annual grasses and broadleaf weeds, including Poa Annua Good Crabgrass control. May cause injury to certain varieties of creeping bentgrass and fine fescues. Turf – Ornamentals .75 – 2 OZ. per 1000 sq.ft depending on which state you are in. *Do not apply to crops grown for food*

TOWER HERBICIDE – 63.9% Dimethenamid by BASF This is a relatively new preemergent herbicide for professional use on commercial turf and landscape maintenance and Ornamental production, not including use in greenhouses. There is a new label approving residential use on turf. Tower is a shoot growth inhibitor that controls germinating seedlings before or shortly after they emerge. Controls broadleaf weeds, many grasses including crabgrass and sedges, including Yellow Nutsedge. Rate .49-.74 oz. per 1000 sq.ft

SUREGUARD HERBICIDE – 51 % Flumioxazin by Valent For the use in containers and field grown conifers and decidious trees, around established woody ornamentals, in landscapes and to maintain bare ground non-crop areas. Post emergence use. There have been problems reported with this product. Controls mostly broadleaf weeds and crabgrass. Rate 8-12 OZ per acre

SPECTICLE 20 WSP – 20% Indaziflam by Bayer For the control of annual grasses, annual sedges and broadleaf weeds in turfgrass, landscape ornamentals, hardscapes, christmas trees. This product is also reported to have problems, probably due to the small amount used per acre. Do NOT use on Creeping Bentgrass, Fine Fescue, Annual and Perenial Ryegrass and Annual Bluegrass. Rate 2.5 OZ. per acre

All products are available at Tampa Agricultural Products. Not all are shown on the website but you can call 1-800-373-5008 to order. Not all preemergent herbicides were named and more can be obtained at Tampa Ag

These are some of the insecticides used by professionals and available at Tampa Ag

Plants need Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium to survive.  They also need micronutrients. With the correct nutrients your plants will thrive and produce more blooms, fruit and size.

So here are the common symptoms of what a plant might experience without those nutrients.

NITROGEN: Slow growth of tops and roots; leaves turn yellow-green when young, or to orange, red, or purple when mature (veins may turn purple), beginning from bottom leaves to top; reduction in number of flowers and yield of grain or fruit; slow growth and delay in opening of buds.

PHOSPHOROUS: Similar to Nitrogen except leaf color either dull bluish green with tints of purple instead of yellow or red – OR -leaves dull bronze with purple or brown spots; leaf edges often brown, especially in potatoes.

POTASSIUM: If deficiency is mild, stems are thin; if severe, stems stunt or die; leaves usually dull bluish green, often with yellow streaks between veins, followed by browning of tips and edges, with brown spots developing at edges; leaves rolled starting at bottom leaves; poor root growth, and poor development of fruit, flowers, or grain.

CALCIUM: Begins at the upper leaves; leaves very distorted and curled at edges; edges appear ragged and leaves may have thin yellow bands or be brown and die; roots develop poorly.

MAGNESIUM: Leaves turn yellow, sometimes between veins, sometimes in spots or streaks; then turn brown and die, beginning at bottom of plant.

MANGANESE: Similar to magnesium but symptoms start at top of plant.

SULFUR: Reduced growth; curling down of leaves at tips. Similar to Nitrogen deficiency except that lower leaves are not lost.

BORON: Begins at upper leaves; leaves become light green (lighter at base) veins turn purple, leaves may have faint streaks and yellowing, then turn orange. Plant stops growing; roots down at tips with tissue breakdown at base; poor growth of tops and roots; flowers drop off; no grain or fruit.

IRON: Severe yellowing of newer leaves (either spotted or total); more often visible in trees than in yearly crops.

ZINC: Molted spots on leaves, first yellowish then yellow or purple-red. Appears late in summer, then leaves drop early. leaves become crinkled and small.

MOLYBDENUM: Similar to Nitrogen deficiency since molybdenum is required for nitrogen fixing bacteria; leaves become yellow between veins, first on mature leaves. Young leaves may become severely twisted and eventually die.

There are different sources for these nutrients, we carry many of the best!  Try our Bio-Enhanced chelated Organic liquid Fertilizers and  Organic MicroNutrients

There are a variety of new and old biological products on the market today. They seem a bit mysterious and we may feel uncertain as to their effectiveness because most of their mode of action takes place underground. Most biological pesticides are in the form of fungi, bacteria and viruses. Sounds a bit creepy really since these are not usually considered friendly. But as the sustainability movement and the demand for biocontrols continues, we will become more comfortable with them, perhaps much more comfortable than with the use of chemicals. Considering that most biological pesticides are OMRI listed, I think they will end up being the way of the future. A much safer and environmentally friendly future.

Biologicals, much the same as chemicals come in wettable powders, liquids and granules, however unlike chemicals they have a relatively short life span with most only being viable and effective for up to a year. Some also need to be refrigerated.

Here are a few of the more trusted and better-known biological pesticides:

BotaniGard 22 WP and ES – contains the fungus Beauveria bassiana, strain GHA. This is used as an insecticide against whiteflies, thrips and aphids and more.

Actinovate SP – contains the micro-organism Streptomyces Lydicus, strain WYEC 108. This biological fungicide controls and suppresses many plant destroying fungi such as Pythium, Rhizoctonia, Botrytis, Phytophtora, Downy Mildew and others.

RootShield or Plantshield WP – both contain the fungus Trichoderma harzianum, strain T- 22. These products block and attack pathogens by “eating them.”  Controls Pythium,Fusarium, Rhizoctonia and Thielaviopsis and more…

There are many other biologicals out there and as long as they are from reputable companies or have EPA registrations it is a safe bet that they are viable and effective.

I believe biologicals are the next generation of “pesticides” and once people become more familiar with them they will understand their benefits and sustainability in the world of gardening.

Monique Swann

First it’s buying the new smaller house, then the move, having to downsize and make endless decisions as to what to keep or sell, 2-three day long estate sales, construction changes and nonstop painting, and all this time while still running a business. Can I say life gets in the way of what you plan to do!

Now selling the old house, running back and forth cleaning and making sure it’s presentable enough to sell to the ever-elusive buyer.
I sincerely hope that the picture of the house on my bulletin board with the big magic marker “sold” word written over the picture will add some magic to the process. Hey, I’ll do anything that might help!

Have I had the time to work in own new little patch of paradise? Nope! Okay well a little here and there, a few hanging baskets and potted plants, it looks pretty enough and my new neighbors are thrilled someone is caring for the house and yard, but I haven’t had the time to devote an entire weekend (hey, if that’s all I can get, I’ll take it) to my landscape project and it’s already mid March! Like I told you “life gets in the way” and that’s just a fact that needs accepting, my new motto was “Life is all about coming up with plan B, C, D, etc…”

So this weekend after yet another yard sale on Friday, I hope to have the pleasure to plant my shrubs and annuals waiting in the driveway looking like a nursery, as my neighbor wittily said to me a few days ago. Ha!

I promised myself I would have the most beautiful yard on this street and win the Beautification award our city hands out. I think it’s high time to get that going.

Lets hope Life doesn’t have other plans for me, at least not this weekend!! Oh, and it better not rain either!

Monique

It’s one of those perfect days, the sun is warm on my skin but a cool gentle breeze is blowing to keep me comfortable. What a joy it is to be outside again after all these freezes and rain. So yeah, naturally, I want to be out here gardening, that’s what a lovely day like this is for, right?

 Okay, so here it goes, I mow down the weeds on my riding lawn mower, not too strenuous, except the sand blowing around is making my sinuses act up. I’m bending down picking up loads of branches from the previous storms; my back is definitely starting to feel it. I’m on my knees; I’m pulling out countless weeds (why don’t they ever freeze?). By the way, I’m very surprised at this point that I can barely get up. I’m a bit more realistic about understanding the sore back! I look around and there seems to be no end in sight, I’ve got a huge yard! 

 So, here I am on my knees and I start to seriously ask myself why exactly did I say I love  gardening?   I mean between the fire ants, some stinging burning nettle from hell, which by the way is still stinging six hours later. A toad I unearthed that scared me about as much as the snake I apparently mowed over and killed and the spiders that made me want to immediately google to make sure they weren’t gonna kill me, I mean, really!! I gotta ask, did I really say I love to garden? What was I thinking!! Oh about that dead snake, my dog proceeded to rub her face all over that thing and that is the face I kiss!!! 

Wouldn’t it be lovely to just lounge around right now with a cocktail? Perfect balmy days like this don’t seem to come along too often lately, wouldn’t it be nice to just lie around and relax!  Must get this done though! Yeah, I must, can I figure out how to lie down and weed at the same time? A new meaning to lying down on the job!

But at the end of this long arduous, strenuous, exhausting, grueling (okay, I’m done) day, I feel a satisfaction that is hard to obtain in other ways. At least for a gardener that is. The results are so pleasing to my eyes, the restored beauty, the groomed beds and the much-deserved cocktail makes it all worth it, I think! 

So, I’m gonna do it again tomorrow! Yeah, it’s Sunday and I could relax but hey, isn’t this a labor of love?  I’ll be back out there to do it all again, if I can move, that is!

Arugula seedlings

Well, when I started growing vegetable and flower seeds recently, I never expected to be confronted with emotional issues.

Starting out, I lovingly put the seed in the best germinating soil; I misted them carefully, and checked on them several times a day. I waited expectantly, practically like waiting for a newborn infant. Lo and behold the miracle happens and they pop their little green heads out, sometimes crowned by the seeds they are trying push their way out of.

Ahhhhh, They are so tiny and lovely, feathery little things, all with bright futures and I took an active part in their creation. I’m so proud!!

But…there’s so many of them! Literally hundreds! Isn’t that great! No! Okay so I was a little overzealous and thought I had to use the entire packet – why after all put them in there like that if you don’t need that many? Didn’t make sense to me.

So I diligently pored over all the gardening books I can find, twitter some of my favorite gardening buddies like BG_garden (the seed queen) and getinthegarden and several others to help me figure this thing out. So I’m supposed to do WHAT?  Thin them out?

No!! I’m devastated to find out that I now have to destroy the very little lives I so nurtured and adoringly looked after. I’m not sure if I have the courage for this!

 I’m traumatized with each snip of the scissors, snuffing out yet another little budding life, even though I know it’s good for the remaining plants.

 Okay, I’m learning to deal with it, as we must with all difficult issues in our lives.

So back to the remaining plants that are thriving now (at the expense of the others) and I dotingly baby them along, water and fertilize them with my fantastic Fish Emulsion until they are ready to go out on their own.

What!!!! I have to put them in the garden, away from their protected environment? I have to leave them to fend for themselves (they aren’t very good at this) from visiting wildlife. To be gnawed at, dug up, hauled of and destroyed! I’m having a hard time letting go.  

Look, if someone had told me about the emotional side of growing from seed I might now have had the courage. Growing seeds is not for the weak of heart!

The freezes we’ve experienced here in Central Florida over the past week sure have done a number on our plants this time. I’m sure most of us have some type of cold injury to the entire plant or just parts of the plants.  In freezing temperatures, ice crystal formation takes place in and between cells. The cell membranes rupture on contact with the sharp edges of the crystals. As a large number of cells die, the damage is visible. The first symptom is dead leaf tissue on leaf tips or margins (necrosis)

Wait to remove a plant until it warms up, many plants come back from the root. Also, the damage isn’t always evident until it gets warmer. So, now what do we do? First you want to make sure your plants have adequate water. The foliage could be losing water vapor (transpiring) when the sun comes back out after a freeze and the soil may also be frozen, so water the soil to provide water for your plants.

Delay heavy pruning for now but damaged or unsightly leaves can be removed at this time.

Here are some products to help speed up recovery or minimize freeze damage. First you need to know that until the plant starts growing again it won’t take up any nutrients, fertilizer isn’t recommended right now. If the ground is still frozen you can use Soil Conditioner Plus, which is a combination of the Soil Conditioner and Humic Acid. The Soil Conditioner aerates the ground making it possible for soil microbes to flourish and in turn allows the humic acid to get to the root system. The Humic Acid stimulates plant growth by accelerating cell division and increasing the rate of development in root systems. It also stimulates growth and proliferation of desirable soil microorganisms.

If the ground is not frozen but the plants are damaged, the best thing to use now is Seaweed. Our Formula Seaweed is 100% organic and contains all natural growth hormones and regulators, vitamins and minerals. Our seaweed is chelated for instant uptake by the plant and has the added humic acid. It is a great stress reliever and will significantly help with freeze and frost damage.

 Give your stressed and frostbitten plants something to help them grow and be healthy again.

For product information and price call 1-800-373-5008 or go to www.tampaag.com

                Arbor Day is coming up for Floridians!

Trees, trees, trees, I love trees!  It just so happens that I was drawing up a tree plan when I realized Arbor Day was coming up soon. I had never really researched this holiday and how it started so I googled it and came up with this wonderful information I want to share.

 It has been over 135 years since Julius Sterling Morton founded Arbor Day in 1872.  

President Cleveland appointed Morton Secretary of Agriculture in 1893. He taught modern farming and forestry techniques and was credited with helping that department’s service to farmers and setting up national forest reservations.

Arbor Day is a special day set aside for planting trees. The Arbor Day Foundation is a nonprofit conservation and education organization whose mission statement is “Inspiring people to plant, nurture and celebrate trees”. The foundation also has an ongoing campaign with the U.S Forest Service where for every dollar donated they will plant a tree to replant our national forests.

The national Arbor Day is observed the last Friday in April but individual states observe their own Arbor Day according to their best planting season. Florida celebrates on January 15^th.  Check to see when your state celebrates this holiday.

With a  $10 membership you receive 10 bare root trees that are specific to your area. That’s a great deal! Their website offers a wealth of information to anyone wanting to learn about adding trees to their gardens and much needed tree plantings elsewhere.

The Arbor Day Foundation site also provides a homeowners “Backyard Woods” link. There you’ll find information that helps you come up with a master plan, planting and pruning guide for a homeowner with 1-10 acres.  It asks such questions as “why am I planting trees and what do I hope to accomplish?” This will keep you from haphazardly sticking trees in the ground. There’s also a guide for tree identification and so much more.

Last years members planted 8 million trees. Can you imagine the impact that has made!

 Go to the website www.arborday.org and get your membership and your trees.  Help be a part of global healing! Help provide a habitat, shelter and food for wildlife whether in your own back yard, the national parks or around the globe. Arbor Day is observed all over the world.

I can’t wait to plant my trees!

  The Cypress tree is an essential tree in our wetlands. Cypress trees are clear-cut just for mulch. In Florida this type of clear cutting presents a special problem. It creates room for the Brazilian Pepper-tree (Schinus terbinthifolius). Brazilian Pepper is a highly invasive tree that costs the state (you and me) an enormous amount of money to eradicate and keep under control.

 If that isn’t enough to convince you cypress mulch is not a good choice for your garden, listen to this. Cypress mulch doesn’t decompose and it prevents water, nutrients and air from reaching your plant’s roots.

Pine bark or straw and some of the others are a much better and more conscientious choice.